Monday, 11 May 2015

Somerset Island, Nunavut, Canada
- stunning arctic wilderness

Somerset Island is a large, uninhabited island in the Arctic Canada region of Nunavut.

William Edward Parry was the first European to sight the island in 1819.

In 1848, James Clark Ross, commanding two ships, landed at Port Leopold, on the northeastern coast, to winter there during his search for the unfortunate Franklin expedition.

The quest for the Northwest Passage also passed around the island, either by South (Bellot Strait) or by North (Barrow Strait).

But since around 1000 AD, the north coast of Somerset Island was inhabited by the Thule people, as evidenced by whale bones, tunnels and stone ruins like a Thule house near Cape Anne.

Coordinates : 73° 15′ N, 93° 30′ W

Temporary occupation: at Arctic Watch camp and Fort Ross cabins.

Somerset Island is under an ice cap in the cold season, but in springtime the melting of ice uncovers deep canyons all across the land.

Port Leopold

The relatively quiet bay where James Clark Ross wintered would later become the site for a Hudson Bay company outpost for the fur trade.

The Hudson Bay Co. outpost at Port Leopold.

Port Leopold also served as a shelter for whaling ships.

The presently abandoned outpost was built in 1920 and was occupied then until the 1930s.

Fort Ross
at 72° 00′ N, 94°14′ W

The Fort Ross trading post, established in 1937, was run for 11 years by the Hudson's Bay Company, until 1948.

On the shore of Bellot Strait, at the southeastern end of Somerset Island, Fort Ross was the last trading post built by the Hudson's Bay Company in Canada's Arctic.

Rising out of the vast Arctic wilderness, Fort Ross had two buildings - a manager's house and a store - and was also home to a number of Inuit families.

When it was closed, people and goods were moved some 250 kilometers south to Taloyoak (on the mainland) and the island was left uninhabited except for occasional Inuit caribou hunters.

The Northwest passage

Ship wintering at Bellot Strait

Roald Amundsen transited the Bellot Strait passage between Somerset Island and the Melville Peninsula in his 'Gjøa' in the first successful traverse of the Northwest Passage in 1904.

Bellot Strait, a narrow 32 km passage separating the northernmost tip of North America from Somerset Island, is covered for several months with packed ice.

Henry Larsen transited the passage, in the St. Roch in the second successful transit in 1943. But he found this route, though shorter,  was dangerously icebound, and too shallow for regular commercial ships; most of the traffic sails by the northern waters of Barrow Strait.

Today, the local tourist camp organizes walks along the Passage, and even an yearly Marathon !

But the most stunning geological features in the island are its deep canyons and high waterfalls, at least after most of the ice has melt.

The meandering Cunningham river.

The Gull canyon in Cunningham river.

Rafting or kayaking in Cunningham river is also part of the tourist activities.

The Triple Falls.

The Arctic Watch tourism camp

Arctic Watch Lodge, installed since 1992, is located at Cunningham Inlet, on the northern coast, 800 km north of the Arctic Circle.

The transport is mostly provided by charter plane from Yellowknife, since a flat private airstrip has been built.

The complex has lodging capacity for 45 persons and provides all necessary equipment and meals.

Starting the Northwest Passage Marathon.

Somerset's Arctic fauna and flora.

For such a desolate territory, much animal life would not be expected on land. But though marine mammals are the real stars, the usual arctic land fauna is also present:

White rabbits. And where there are rabbits, there are...

White arctic foxes.

Polar bears are also frequent visitors, as marine mammals ashore are an easy prey.

Musk Ox, several herds.

Birds like arctic owls are also present, but the main animal attraction, though, seems to be perm whales, that come by hundreds to the Cunningham Inlet waters, just nearby the Arctic Watch lodge.

Purple Saxifrage, the inevitable and most famous Arctic flowering plant.


Note: I'd just like to disclaim any interest in advertising 'Arctic Watch lodge', which is referred only because it is in fact the only regular human presence on the island.

Friday, 24 April 2015

Launceston, historic city in Tasmania.

The Island of Tasmania was for centuries something of a southern Thule - a distant, low latitude, isolated island few people visited or knew about, and somehow shrouded in strange wilderness.

In fact, Tasmania, at just 41º S, is not that much southern, and its rich natural and historic heritage attracts presently a large number of visitors.

I've published here, not long ago, about Hobart, its main city and departure port to Antarctica ; Launceston is the second largest city, situated inland in northern Tasmania, 60 kms up the Tamar River estuary, at the juncture of the South and North Esk Rivers.

King's bridge, one of the city's landmarks.

The first European visitors did not arrive until 1798, when British navigators George Bass and Matthew Flinders were sent to explore the possibility that there was a strait between Australia and Tasmania.

King's bridge was built in 1884 over the mouth of South Esk River.

Launceston, Tasmania

Coordinates: 41° 26′ S, 147° 8′ E
Population : ~110 000

The magnificent Town Hall, built in 1884 in neo-Renaissance italianate style by Peter Mills.

Settled in March 1806, Launceston is one of Australia's three oldest cities.

View from the City Park gates through Cameron Street to the Post Office tower.

The Post Office, another landmark, was built in the 1880s, and the tower added in 1903.

Many of the buildings in the City's centre were constructed in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Some are well preserved Edwardian and Georgian houses.

Peter Mills, one of Tasmania’s most respected architects, designed and built a great number of Launceston's character buildings between 1864 and 1882.

Cameron Street has some of the best historic houses:

The Supreme Court (1870), on Cameron Street, designed by Peter Mills, was first built for a rich merchant.

The 'Batman Fawkner Inn' (originally The Cornwall Hotel) was built in 1824 and is the oldest brick building in town.

Art Nouveau decoration.

Façades along Cameron Street.

Esk Terrace, Cameron Street.

Former Peter Mills furnishing warehouse, on the corner of Cameron St. and George St., known as "Diana, Venus & Fortune" (1882). The architect lived here with his family.

The Quadrant Mall

The shopping and commercial area surrounded by York, George, St. John and Brisbane Streets is known as 'the Quadrant', a winding alley with cosy cafés and boutiques. It was made into a mall in the 1970's.

The old town's shopping center - 'Quadrant Mall'.

The 'Pasta', one of a few terraces on the mall.

The Old Umbrella Shop

Built in the 1860s, this unique shop is the last genuine period store in Tasmania and has been operated by the same family since the turn of the 20th century. The shop is listed by the National Trust.

Birchalls bookshop

The oldest bookshop in Australia, on Brisbane Street Mall since 1844.

The Edwardian 'Macquarie House', the oldest house in Launceston (1830).

Boag & Son brewery (Boag's), founded in 1883.

St. John's Church.

St. John's anglican church, founded in 1824 and completed in 1835.

Built in bricks, in Georgian style.

The rosewindow.

The City Park and the Jubilee Fountain

Queen Victoria's Jubilee Fountain was built in the City Park for the 1897 celebrations.

Cataract Gorge

On low South Esk river, this bridge across a gorge is within walking distance from Launceston. A pathway runs along the north bank.

William Collins found the gorge entrance in 1804.

Alexandra suspended bridge (1940), over Cataract Gorge. 

The views are more exciting when the South Esk is under flood - a chairlift has also been built across the gorge for the more adventurous.